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marco
Dodge Dakota
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7/22/2004
23:39:00
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 Subject: break in
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Message:
i just got my new rebuilt bored out 3.9l back its in the truck ready to turn the key,but i just spent alot of money to my beast back on its legs but am unsure about break in procedures or first start up. anybody can help?
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IntenseDak39
*GenIII*
7/23/2004
09:00:15
| RE: break in
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Message:
if it has never been fired, you will need to break in the camshaft and do a few other things.
Use a non-detergent oil instead of a conventional oil. They sell it at most automotive stores. When you first fire it up and get it running good. Hold the rpms at a steady 2500 for 20 minutes straight. This will allow the cam to get broken in. After that, change the oil to a regular conventional and be nice to the motor for it's first 500 miles of life... but dont hold a steady speed (kinda like with a new car). Then change your oil again.
be sure to change your filter each time you change your oil.
6.6 Lt. Big Block, 727 TF shift kit, 452 heads, edelbrock 750 cfm, .513/.513 284/300 crower cam, comp cams springs, comp cams pushrods, 1.5 roller rockers, dp intake, mopar ignition, mopar windage tray, dual exhaust w/ 40 series flowmasters, 4.10 gears, coilover drag suspension, approx, 3500 lbs
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?
Dodge Dakota
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7/23/2004
14:15:11
| RE: break in
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http://www.krcperformance.com/newcontent/timing.html
Maybe after the " break-in " ?
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Seth
Dodge Dakota
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7/24/2004
00:31:16
| RE: break in
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Do what intense said, dodge recommends 500 miles break in. Also during the break in is a good time to check your fuel sync, ignition timing etc. so after the 500 miles are up all you need to do is change the oil and put your foot in it :)
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marco
Dodge Dakota
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7/24/2004
09:44:58
| RE: break in
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Message:
alright thanks guys ima turn the key tonight and see what happens thanks again
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hater
Dodge Dakota
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7/24/2004
11:22:06
| RE: break in
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Message:
its a hydrolic roller camshaft, theres no "breakin" persay. Just crank it over a few times with the coil wire pulled to prime the oil system then fire it up and drive. Take it easy for the first 1000 miles or so and vary the engine load and rpm so the rings seat properly
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AmsoilSponsor
DakotaEnthusiast
7/24/2004
14:43:12
| Amsoil Break In Oil Amzoil Amsoil Ams Oil Amsoil
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Message:
Which oil to use during break-in of rebuilt engine? ...
... and regarding the use of "which oil" to use in brand new or rebuilt engine?
It is recommended, however not mandatory, that the motor be initially operated with petroleum oil (unless it is new and factory fill synthetic oil) ... up to its first normal drain interval. The advantages of doing this are as follows.
New engines or engine components generate high wear metals to begin with and may contain debris from machining and assembly. It is more beneficial to allow these wear metals to collect in an inexpensive motor oil than to circulate throughout the crankcase for extended periods in a synthetic motor oil. By operating the vehicle to its first drain interval with a petroleum oil, these wear metals and manufacturing debris collect in the oil and are then flushed out of the crankcase when drained. This allows for a much cleaner operating environment for the synthetic lubricant.
__________________________________________________
You can REQUEST A FREE AMSOIL CATALOG by clicking the following link.
Steven Roark , Amsoil Dealer , Proud Sponsor of www.DodgeDakotas.com
AMSOIL Synthetic Motor Oils, Lubricants, Filtration, and Truck Care Products
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03SXT
Dodge Dakota
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7/24/2004
17:56:02
|  break in
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i just got a new motor in my truck its an 03SXT Dak, with the 3.9, the old one spun a main bearing....the stealership told me to go 3000 miles to my first oil change, then a freind of mine said to go 500 miles then change the oil....what yall think i should do, ill probably go with Valvoline 10w30....later
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Greg
Dodge Dakota
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7/24/2004
21:57:13
| RE: break in
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Message:
Your first oil change like intense said should be at a very short interval... I too would recommend changing after the first 500 miles... When I built the top end in my motor, I actually gave it two 250 mile oil changes to get up to the 500 mile one then put on my amsoil bypass system...
I would recommend this even to the allready broke in engines that are put into new vehicles and the one like what the dealership had put into your truck...
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IntenseDak39
*GenIII*
7/24/2004
23:40:36
| RE: break in
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Message:
good job hater, you caught me on that one... been use to working on this big block ;D
sorry, no cam break in with roller cams... just fluctuate your driving habits for the first 500 miles... and dont go WOT with it...
6.6 Lt. Big Block, 727 TF shift kit, 452 heads, edelbrock 750 cfm, .513/.513 284/300 crower cam, comp cams springs, comp cams pushrods, 1.5 roller rockers, dp intake, mopar ignition, mopar windage tray, dual exhaust w/ 40 series flowmasters, 4.10 gears, coilover drag suspension, approx, 3500 lbs
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03SXT
Dodge Dakota
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7/24/2004
23:52:06
| break in
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thats a big 10,4 cuz, ill do it that way
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hahaha
Dodge Dakota
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7/25/2004
00:14:12
| RE: break in
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Message:
Greg, why two 250 mile changes? You moron, lol
You just did the top end. On a hydrolic roller motor the breakins for the bottom end. Glad you like buying oil so much
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IntenseDak39
*GenIII*
7/25/2004
11:55:01
| RE: break in
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Message:
when working with the heads, most manufacturers recommend about 100 miles to break in the valve train
6.6 Lt. Big Block, 727 TF shift kit, 452 heads, edelbrock 750 cfm, .513/.513 284/300 crower cam, comp cams springs, comp cams pushrods, 1.5 roller rockers, dp intake, mopar ignition, mopar windage tray, dual exhaust w/ 40 series flowmasters, 4.10 gears, coilover drag suspension, approx, 3500 lbs
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Greg
Dodge Dakota
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7/25/2004
16:56:08
| RE: break in
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Message:
Actually break in goes on for 1000's of miles and on most motors all the way up to 10,000 miles... BUT the most breaking in process such as ring and bearing seating takes place durring the first few hundred to 5000 miles...
Break in when getting very technicle about it involves the block going through it's heating and cooling processes and forming its shape... Infact years ago manufacturers would leave the raw shaped block sitting outside untill a few years later allowing the sun and weather to flex them into shape, then they were taken inside and had all of the machining done to them to clean them up...
Oh and "hydraulic" cams do need some minor seating done to them as well... Like the wheel riding pattern and the bearing wear surface pattern...
And the main reason I did all of my quick oil changes was to flush out contaminants such as dust, assembly lubes, and any gasket maker that might chip or break off into the oil pan durring the heating, cooling, and running of the motor...
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