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Relf Dodge Dakota JOIN HERE
5/07/2006 23:24:29
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Subject: Injector sync. IP: Logged
Message: The last time I tried the injector sync mod. I must have adjusted the distributor body TOO far counter-clockwise because when I would punch it at the light the engine would make a destructive sound at high rpms. So I re-set it back to ZERO to be on the safe side.
What is the correct offset from the zero setting if I scribed a centerline on the rotor,to get a +3 advance?
Thanks again.
Relf
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Forseti Dodge Dakota JOIN HERE
5/08/2006 17:13:42
| RE: Injector sync. IP: Logged
Message: The "injector sync" is just a baseline .... there is now way to know what your adjusting it to without a snap-on scanner.... i believe the last time i talked to Marty at KRC he says a +8 sync is the best...BUT the only way to know what your set at is with a scanner ....
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J and J Auto GenII
5/11/2006 04:26:50
| RE: Injector sync. IP: Logged
Message: +8 is good with a hot cam thats what Marty is
talking about
the factory sets them anywhere from -6 to 0
tdc on damper turn only clockwise if you pass up
the mark go around again twice do not turn
counter clockwise
now with just a slight presure back on the rotor
to remove any slop directly center over line is
0 looking from the front of truck back edge of
rotor button alined with the cyl line is aprox
+3 that is where the V6 runs best +3 to +6 if
you go behond +8 it will trip the check engine
light
Your intake valve begains to open 8 degrees
before tdc and the exhaust valve is also open
at this time you want to catch this scavaging
effect where the exhaust is pulsing and helps
pull the charge into the cyl at +3 your catching
this being on the - side your just missing this
better throttle response and gas mileage is the
resault it also helps at higher rpm when there
is more scavaging going on what you will notice
most is better off idle low end response being on
the + side
I have been setting them tis way for years and
when I check them with the snapon MT2500 I am
always within 2 and always on the +side were
you want to be anywhere from +3 to +6 will
give you the best resaults
Larry J&J Auto
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Relf Dodge Dakota JOIN HERE
5/11/2006 11:42:17
| RE: Injector sync. IP: Logged
Message: Larry, my truck performs better with the injector sync. set at zero, rather than in the + range. Why would that be?
Relf
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Relf Dodge Dakota JOIN HERE
5/15/2006 23:56:57
| RE: Injector sync. IP: Logged
Message: Well guys, I did the CPS mod last week and thought I should adjust my injector sync. to +2 or +3, while I was at it.
The CPS mod worked out fine, but my mileage hasn't increased. I'm going to set the sync back to ZERO or 1-2 in the negative range. I don't know why, but it seems to work better for my truck. Maybe the cam was ground off the centerline a degree or two as described in Larry's timing chain post?
Drop-in K&N
Machined 46mm TB
TPS set @ .7 volts
Machined intake man. 1/2" off runners,
gasket matched, opened up inj. bosses.
1/4" plenum plate
Carsound cat. conv.
new O2 sensors (last summer)
new timing chain/ tensioner (last summer)
Gibson side swept cat back exhaust
Autolite 3924s
Mobil 1 10W-30
Mopar wires
Brass cap & rotor
CPS mod.
All this on a 1998 Dakota sport 4X4 Club Cab automatic. Toyo 30 X 9.50 R15 tires. Leer camper shell. 213,000 miles.
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Relf Dodge Dakota JOIN HERE
5/15/2006 23:59:59
| RE: Injector sync. IP: Logged
Message: Oh yeah, I am running 3.92 gears.
Relf.
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Bob Lincoln Dodge Dakota JOIN HERE
5/16/2006 08:34:59
| RE: Injector sync. IP: Logged
Message: That will hurt mpg. I have the 3.55 gears and get 20 mpg highway with no mods, 92 Dak V-6 4x4 4-spd auto club cab.
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Relf Dodge Dakota JOIN HERE
5/16/2006 22:10:49
| RE: Injector sync. IP: Logged
Message: Bob, I have tried injector sync both ways- Zero and +3. My truck, for some reason, is more efficient with a zero setting. I'm not sure why.
Hey Bob, the only mod you've done to your truck is a drop-in K&N?? Well, maybe it's not a mod. You haven't done anything else?
Relf
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Bob Lincoln Dodge Dakota JOIN HERE
5/17/2006 08:11:27
| RE: Injector sync. IP: Logged
Message: That's right. And the K&N did nothing for power or mileage, just made it noisier.
I did a full tuneup and made sure the TV cable is adjusted properly. Around town, it shifts to O/D around 35 mph. With light throttle, there's no lugging.
Hoping to do the injector mod and CPS mod if I can fit my a$$ up on the engine under the hood. I don't know how you guys can get in there.
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daddio Dodge Dakota JOIN HERE
5/17/2006 14:11:18
| RE: Injector sync. IP: Logged
Message: bob, it's not hard to get under there when you're 5'6" 180lbs. i took my crank sensor out while under the truck much easier to get to for me. i have a 5 speed manual. some guys take the inner fender out on the passenger side and take the CPS out from there.
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Relf Dodge Dakota JOIN HERE
5/18/2006 00:32:43
| RE: Injector sync. IP: Logged
Message: Yup, jack stand, remove tire & fender liner.
It's right there.
Relf.
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Bob Lincoln Dodge Dakota JOIN HERE
5/18/2006 08:29:50
| RE: Injector sync. IP: Logged
Message: OK, thanks. I was hesitant to remove the liner, in case the snaps break off. Autozone used to carry them, but no longer does in my area; Pep Boys doesn't seem to have them either.
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Relf Dodge Dakota JOIN HERE
5/18/2006 11:14:32
| RE: Injector sync. IP: Logged
Message: Bob, you have to drill out the stock plastic fasteners with a 1/8" drill. The removeable type are featured on ohiodakotas.com. Go to the CPS mod. and he shows you what they look like. I bought some from McMaster-Carr and these are the same as the stock ones (you need a large pop riveter to use them). Mc Master has others that do not require a tool.
Relf
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bludak Dodge Dakota JOIN HERE
5/18/2006 11:37:36
| RE: Injector sync. IP: Logged
Message: I can't believe you guys are removing the inner wheel well and tire to do the CPS mod. You are creating a whole bunch of extra work for yourselves. If you use some stubby wrenches, you can remove the 2 bolts that hold the trans dip stick tube, then it will be loose and will swing out of the way, but don't pull it out, then remove the 2 bolts that hold the crank sensor mod, undo the connector close to the distributor, then just take it out. I believe it is a 9/16 and 1/2 wrench to use. It is tight but I can do it in 15 minutes, no problem. Just lean over the engine and thats it! Replace the sensor after its modded and tightened everything down.
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Relf Dodge Dakota JOIN HERE
5/18/2006 22:52:38
| RE: Injector sync. IP: Logged
Message: bludak, "lean over the engine"? Dude, how skinny are you? I'm 5'8" and 200lb. and 37 years old. How do your arms fit in between the firewall and the engine? Please send pics so I can forward them to Ripley's, haha.
Relf.
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Joe M. Dodge Dakota JOIN HERE
5/19/2006 08:06:51
| RE: Injector sync. IP: Logged
Message: relf not sure if the locations are diff. between your truck and mine (94)
but anyway
i'm 6 250lbs. i stood on a ramp placed right up against the tire and easily removed the CPS
only bitch i had was the groumet
what a mess, half melted, slimey mush! LOL
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bludak Dodge Dakota JOIN HERE
5/19/2006 11:07:01
| RE: Injector sync. IP: Logged
Message: 5'9" 160 lbs., ya I'm a little on the light side but it makes it easy to get into the cramped quarters. I could see a bigger person having a harder time to do this mod. I would suggest the Superchips programmer instead, you will get more out of it and its easy to instal.
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N56629 Dodge Dakota JOIN HERE
5/19/2006 11:15:36
| RE: Injector sync. IP: Logged
Message: Stubby wrenches or long extensions, with someone underneath to guide the socket, work nice.
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Relf Dodge Dakota JOIN HERE
5/19/2006 11:17:16
| RE: Injector sync. IP: Logged
Message: Guys, my truck is a '98, 4X4 with air con. It's kinda cramped in there. Wheel well route doesn't take long. Took me an hour.
Relf
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