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John Dewees Dodge Dakota JOIN HERE
3/31/2003 18:40:58
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Subject: Keeping 4.7 Cool IP: Logged
Message:
I have a 4.7L CC with the Automatic transmission. It is equipped with the
Heavy Duty Service Group.
I'm running a RobertShaw 330-180 (The "High Performance" t-stat). When
driving in 90+ degree weather, the truck doesn't seem to be able to stay
cool. No matter what I do, short of turning the heater on high. Now, I'm not
overheating, but it does get close to 210 and rides right about there.
What should I do? Should I get a radiator flush or cooling system flush? If
so, what kind should I get? Would the one at Jiffy Lube be ok?
Thanks for all your help
John
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jeremiah2360 Dodge Dakota JOIN HERE
3/31/2003 19:43:01
| RE: Keeping 4.7 Cool IP: Logged
Message: do you have a thermostatic adj. switch? stock electric fan doesnt come on til 200-210ish. mine is set to come on just past the 180 t-stat i put in. stays nice and cool right now, no "bouncing around". still cool where i am (boston area) so the real test is to come, but at least it will give me a head start on the heat.no clutch fan in mine either, probably in summer i will put it back. You can have the pcm flashed to have fan come on earlier too.
03 qc 4.7 auto 5800 miles
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adam Dodge Dakota JOIN HERE
3/31/2003 20:12:38
| RE: Keeping 4.7 Cool IP: Logged
Message: Where did you get the thermostat adjuster switch?
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D GenIII
3/31/2003 20:26:41
| RE: Keeping 4.7 Cool IP: Logged
Message: AC turns on the elec. fan...not the heater!
2003 WRX
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slow2dak Dodge Dakota JOIN HERE
3/31/2003 21:48:38
| RE: Keeping 4.7 Cool IP: Logged
Message: all the 4.7's that come in to my dealer run about 205 degress, which is normal operating temperature. my 4.7 in my 02 dak sport runs about 203 at idle in 90 degree weather.
mike
02 4.7/Auto RC Sport
3.55 and a one legged wonder
removed 3rd cat, single 3" w/flowmaster
tps .701
relocated IAT
Adjustable ECT sensor
K & N drop in
Removed rubber flap
Unplugged LPS(soon to be adjustable
Best 1/4: 15.40 @ 89.52
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Waltherone Dodge Dakota JOIN HERE
3/31/2003 22:44:25
| RE: Keeping 4.7 Cool IP: Logged
Message: Does it steadily stay there while driving? Mine will rise up to 210 and make the fan come on, but only when I'm in line at a fast food place, something like that.
One thing I heard you can do to keep it from fluctuating is drill a couple of small holes in the outer aluminum rim (the ~3/4" wide flat part) of the T-stat before putting it in, it'll let more cooland pass, or so people say, but I haven't done this..
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jeremiah2360 Dodge Dakota JOIN HERE
4/01/2003 02:35:32
| RE: Keeping 4.7 Cool IP: Logged
Message: adam you can get one at autozone flexalite #31147 i believe($35), it by-passes pcm to tell fan to come on earlier. pcm will still work if switch fails. do a search i did what CW did.
D the heater core is a baby radiator and will help cool engine, nothing to do with fan. i put the ac on in driveway and listened for fan and it didnt come on, tried all settings. it may have been cold and in closed or open or whatever loop its in when not warmed up. read in this forum people were turning on ac to turn on fan, i didnt want to think about it thats why i put in switch, set it and forget it. plus running it even a few degrees cooler things wear a lot less and i didnt like the idea of it going from 180-210 all the time. stays a lot more consistent now.
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Texas Todd Dodge Dakota JOIN HERE
4/01/2003 09:04:32
| RE: Keeping 4.7 Cool IP: Logged
Message: Just the other day, I had the hood up, a/c on, and the thermostat dial on the dash all the way over in the red. I have no belt clutch/fan anymore. The vent dial was on dash vent only.
Anyway, as I thought, the elec fan kicked on like I thought. However, the compressor for the A/C sould also kick on for short bursts! With the dials in the positions I mentioned above. I was surprised it would kick on at all!
Try it, and let me know what you come up with.
And jeremiah, in the south Texas heat, in the summer, no aftermarket switchs, etc. I don't need my fan back on, in Boston, you shouldn't either.
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dweishaar GenIII
4/01/2003 09:40:29
| RE: Keeping 4.7 Cool IP: Logged
Message: allright, i guess i should chime in here since i have the most complex cooling system on my dak....i can manually turn on my electric fan buy turning on the A/C(any setting, on click or all the way over) BUT......the little snowflake button HAS to be on (little light lit) the electric fans kick on at just above 195 (so 200-205)by themselves. any one who doesn't have a clutch fan anymore and operates in the desert may be asking for trouble, cause when i'm screaming through the desert at 80mph, my truck gets REALLY hot,and i usually end up backing off because of the temperature, especially climbing hills, so I'm beefing up the system this week, adding a pre engine radiator, i already gutted the thermostat (takes forever and a day to heat up now)and looking into additives. waht ever you do best of luck.
Cooling mods-
Removed A/C
Removed Clutch Fan
full size heavy duty Aluminum Radiator mounted in Rear if Cab
2 16" electric fans wired to stock elctric fan wiring
The Baja Dak
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Texas Todd Dodge Dakota JOIN HERE
4/02/2003 08:16:32
| RE: Keeping 4.7 Cool IP: Logged
Message: Of course the a/c buttom must be on for the a/c to be on.
Has anybody lifted their hood, turned the a/c on, the temp to full hot, and still had their compressor kick on? Mine did, albeit, short intervals, but I thought it wouldn't kick on at all.
Could you please check and let me know?
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Waltherone Dodge Dakota JOIN HERE
4/02/2003 16:36:59
| RE: Keeping 4.7 Cool IP: Logged
Message: Todd, do you mean engine temp at full hot???? I hope not. Probly mean heater thermostat on full hot, if so, what operating temperature was the engine when you did that test? I'll try and replicate it this afternoon
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Waltherone Dodge Dakota JOIN HERE
4/02/2003 16:51:18
| RE: Keeping 4.7 Cool IP: Logged
Message: Oh and by the way, there's a McDonalds near here that is slower than crap, yet I still go thru their drive-thru pretty often, and I always turn on me heater in line to keep it cool as best I can, I can feel the compressor cutting in and out, but I can't tell from the cab how regular it is, so you're not totally crazy. I'm still gonna check that some time soon.
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azdak Dodge Dakota JOIN HERE
4/02/2003 23:23:10
| RE: Keeping 4.7 Cool IP: Logged
Message: this is strange i did the fan thing as soon as i got my dak last may i ran the whole summer in phoenix arizona and never once broke the half way mark on the guage i seldom had the fan come but i did change to the robert shaw 180 stat im not sure but i thought the fan came on automatically when the ac was turned on i guess ill have to check it tomarrow question to the board have any of you tried waterwetter i did hear good things but thats the guy trying to sell it thanx
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Texas Todd Dodge Dakota JOIN HERE
4/03/2003 11:50:09
| RE: Keeping 4.7 Cool IP: Logged
Message: Arizona,
You can tell from your post, we're in a new age!
(refering to the lack of ANY punctuation marks)
Walter,
yes, the temp dial on the dash.
To activate your heater core, you only need to turn that dial to the red zone, fan has nothing to do with the water flow to the heater core. You could run it out the dash vents, defroster, or floor, all without the fan, just won't come out much without the fan on to push it.
I was referring to the a/c switch on, the temp dial in the red all the way, and the fan on, and the a/c compressor would still kick on a little.
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bill gardnier Dodge Dakota JOIN HERE
4/03/2003 12:11:07
| RE: Keeping 4.7 Cool IP: Logged
Message: Turn the thermmostat around. Thats your Midas tip of the week.
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Texas Todd Dodge Dakota JOIN HERE
4/03/2003 12:13:28
| RE: Keeping 4.7 Cool IP: Logged
Message: bill,
the t-stat in the block, why? Who were you referring to?
I don't have nay probs with the stokc set up, and no belt clutch/fan, in Houston/Galveston TX.
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azdak Dodge Dakota JOIN HERE
4/03/2003 18:07:07
| RE: Keeping 4.7 Cool IP: Logged
Message: Thank you Texas Todd with out your superior hall monitoring skills!! and the fact that you are from texas punctuation would just be a word not a law. What does Arizona have to do with anything are you trying to insult me? And just how do you activate a heater core? The water flows all the time the dampers (controlled by vacuum)are what directs the air. I'll trade punctuation for knowing what im talking about anyday.(refering to the fact from Texas)I'll expect this post graded by tomarrow.LOL
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Daksmack Dodge Dakota JOIN HERE
4/04/2003 19:25:02
| RE: Keeping 4.7 Cool IP: Logged
Message: Yup, us here in Texas dont cotton to yall fellers in Arizoner fergetin to use yer commas and such.
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BFS Dodge Dakota JOIN HERE
4/04/2003 23:31:50
| RE: Keeping 4.7 Cool IP: Logged
Message: The A/C compressor will cycle on and off if the defroster is on, regardless if you want hot or cold air. A/C takes the moisture out of the air as it cools it. Most people don't realize that their A/C is running all winter long.
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Muzzy GenIII
4/05/2003 03:01:02
| RE: Keeping 4.7 Cool IP: Logged
Message: The factory electric fan is supplimental to the clutch fan. It only was designed to come on during the additional load of the AC compressor or if the clutch fan was not providing adequate cooling.
Without the AC on, the eletric fan will come on at 225 degrees. If you have removed your clutch fan, then you need to get a thermostatic switch to active the fan at a lower temp. I used the Perma-Cool adjustable setup set to 180 radiator temp. You can get it at Jegs
If you live in the south and don't have to worry about freezing temps, then I would switch to a 60% water 40% anti-freeze ratio. The water is the cooling medium. The more of it you have, the more it will cool your engine. You will still need some percentage of anti-freeze to raise the boiling point. I wouldn't recommend going less than 30% anti-freeze unless for racing purposes.
-Muzzy
01' Dakota 4x4 4.7 - 5 Sp - 3.92 limited slip Borla SS Headers - ASE modded PCM Flowmaster Force II Cat Back/No 3rd cat - Custom Cold Air intake Robert Shaw 180 Therm - Clutch Fan Removed ARP Head Studs - Ported and Polished Heads HO Cams - Ported TB
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TexasTodd Dodge Dakota JOIN HERE
4/06/2003 18:43:06
| RE: Keeping 4.7 Cool IP: Logged
Message: Arizona,
I was just making a comment how the rules of english, are often not used wahen posting on the internet these days. And of course, I could still understand your post, just thought I'd comment on it. You know, the 'hall monitor' in all of us.
no offense intended, I should have referred to as 'azdak' I thought the 'az' was for arizona.
So if the water is always flowing all the time, the thermostat temp switch just controls what, it dirests the air, to the heater core?
Muzzy,
said: If you have removed your clutch fan, then you need to get a thermostatic switch to active the fan at a lower temp.
Oh man! I hate it when that happens! So, I should have done that TWO YEARS ago? I hate it when that happens. MY temp gauge must be broken, cause it never gets over a 1/3 of the way! Oh man! J/K-Chill
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azdak Dodge Dakota JOIN HERE
4/08/2003 21:11:29
| RE: Keeping 4.7 Cool IP: Logged
Message: texastodd iam from arizona, daksmack that was funny i loved the response. anyway the damper controls the amount of air flowing from outside, ac and heater core the fluid runs through the core all the time. i dont get the stat switch thing in phoenix ive never gotten over the 1/2 mark on the guage and it gets sweltering hot here, 118-120 (but its a dry heat) lol for months at a time thats with ac on high and traffic. my commute is like an hour each way i guess you could do the switch thing but my fan comes on the second i turn on the ac
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john12 Dodge Dakota JOIN HERE
4/13/2003 00:57:42
| RE: Keeping 4.7 Cool IP: Logged
Message: I was wondering how you wire the manual adj. stat to the existing fan? I saw that there is a green wire and a blue wire. Which one is which?? I have the flexalite adj thermostat switch.
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jeremiah2360 Dodge Dakota JOIN HERE
4/13/2003 14:17:51
| RE: Keeping 4.7 Cool IP: Logged
Message: john12, your going to have to take the splash guard out,the piece with the oil filter access. before you do go to autozone and get 3/8 trim panel retainers #45812, to replace ones that break(there are seven holding splash guard on). next splice into GREEN wire with a blue electrical splicer. run wire you spliced to one side of switch. run a wire with a 30 amp fuse in-line from spare pda terminal(always hot, fan will run with key out)to other side of switch.
somebody posted here that they were having problems sealing the sensor in the radiator inlet. its plastic and they didnt want to overtighten and break it.CW said he carefuly forced it into radiator. for a more accurate reading i put the sensor in the inlet side where its aluminum(just past radiator cap towards motor) with a marine 1 3/4 stainless steel exhaust clamp,sealed fine. i mounted switch on side of battery box.
i did a search on this site and improvised.
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