From | Message |
C Dover GenIII
5/11/2001 13:34:37
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Subject: Lowering blocks IP: Logged
Message: I just put an a 2" universal lowering kit on the rear of my truck. I was told that it would help the problem I was having with "bunny hopping". So far I can't tell the difference, except for on gravel. It seems to be 10 times worse than it was before. I guess I'll try traction bars next. If anyone has any other ideas please let me know.
CDover, '00 Sport 4.7l, 5 spd., 3.92 gears, reg. cab, short wheel base
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The Goto Guy Unregistered
5/11/2001 13:56:35
| RE: Lowering blocks IP: Logged
Message: Who told you that? Blocks make axle wrap WORSE. Whether lowering of lifting they allow the axle to have even more leverage on your spring pack. This is the problem. With Traction bars they will be noisy as they hit the snubber against your frame to limit axle wrap and you will lose ground clearance.
I suggest getting an add a leaf kit or stiffer springs so there not as easy to bend. Stiffer shocks may help to dampen the sudden release of the spring also.
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intense99dak *GenIII*
5/11/2001 15:56:33
| RE: Lowering blocks IP: Logged
Message:
What do you keep your tire pressure at? I had the same problem as you (also known as bumpsteer) and ever since I lowered my front tires to 35 lbs and rear to 25 lbs the problem is gone.
I haven't seen a decrease in mileage or tire durability because of the lower pressures, but it makes all the difference in the world when taking bumpy corners.
Chuck Robbins '99 Dakota Sport www.intense99dak.com
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jeffster GenIII
5/11/2001 16:30:45
| RE: Lowering blocks IP: Logged
Message: If you want to spend the money Bel tech almost certainly makes lowering leaf springs. They are a lot stiffer and engineered specificly to that aplication. I used Bel Tech leafs and Bel tech nitro shocks on my old S10 for the rear. This will cost $400 or $500 but the ride quality and handling is unbeleivable.
I had blocks originaly but did it right when I had the money. Blocks also put a lot of stress on the axle braket. When you leaver that much weight up on stilts you are asking for problems. I actually broke the braket that is welded to the axle and seats agaisnt the top of the blocks and will never use blocks again if I was to lower a vehcle. You can tell just by looking at them that they are just a cheap way of getting lower and don't actually provide any sort of handling properties whatsoever.
You could also by leaf spring clamps They are very inexspensive. They simply lock the leafs tightly together to prevent bounce. I will buy them for my 4.7 Sport to prevent bounce on the track if I don't find something better.
Good luck.
Waiting for my 2001 black 4.7 RC Sport 5 speed 3:92 limited slip
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The Goto Guy Unregistered
5/11/2001 16:37:23
| RE: Lowering blocks IP: Logged
Message: Bumpsteer? I thought we're talking about rear wheel traction, hence the traction bars reference and blocks for the rear. Bumpsteer is on an independent suspension when one wheel moves and through the tie rods pulls or pushes the other wheel causing a noticable steering input. On a solid axle this can't happen as they don't steer. But the other wheel/tire tilts to accommidate the tire moving up and down. By lowering your rear pressure you added flex to the tire sidewall so the axle/wheel could tilt but leave your contact patch on the ground instead of lifting the inside edge if the tire were solid and would reduce the grip alowwing it to slide easier.
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intense99dak *GenIII*
5/11/2001 17:43:47
| RE: Lowering blocks IP: Logged
Message:
I was under the impression that C Dover was talking about what I call bumpsteer, but I might have been mistaken.
Hey, C Dover, Off the line problems or cornering problems?
Chuck Robbins '99 Dakota Sport www.intense99dak.com
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Kevin Unregistered
5/11/2001 19:40:19
| RE: Lowering blocks IP: Logged
Message: FWIW, I have 3 in. lowering blocks on my '95 CC, and I experience no axle hop at all.
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Alex Unregistered
5/12/2001 16:23:22
| RE: Lowering blocks IP: Logged
Message: Lowering Blocks cause God-Awful wheel hop (axle wrap) when your truck has a manual trans. It may be a bit less for you guys with automatics. Less shock on the whole driveline, but for lowering, i would suggest Western Chassis (look them up in Truckin' Magazine) or Hotchkis Suspension. Hotchkis has de-arched rear leafs and drop front coils. Western CHassis has drop rear leaf hangers and drop front spindles. i had the Western kit on my old 92 v-6. It dropped 2 in front and 3 in rear. Not much extra axle hop (it had the 3.23 rear with a 5-spd) and it handled turns like a go-kart. Plus it looked cool. The whole suspension was re-bushed in poly-urethane, and that really helped out as well.
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jessie Dodge Dakota JOIN HERE
3/05/2003 10:34:12
| RE: Lowering blocks IP: Logged
Message: i need lowering block diagrams to make my
own for a 89 ranger and a sugestion on
lowering the fron should I just chop the
springs and what about front and rear camber
is there gonna be an issue
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409-dude Dodge Dakota JOIN HERE
4/27/2003 18:21:53
| RE: Lowering blocks IP: Logged
Message: I've just installed bell tech 3" lowering springs in the rear of my 2003 S-10,now it leans 1-1/4 inchs to the drivers side in the rear..WHATS UP WITH THAT!!!!..would i have frame to rearend contact if i use 1"lowering blocks with them?? Thanks...
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