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18:05:55 - 11/14/2024
Dakota Performance
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DW
Dodge Dakota
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10/07/2002
17:59:41
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 Subject: Synthetic ATF+3
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Message:
Anyone had good luck with synthetic ATF in an auto trans for the 4.7L engine. The Dodge parts guy said to use ATF+3 that is MS-7176 compliant or I could get converter shutter. I used Valvoline ATF+3 on my last trans service, since it said it was MS-7176. I also looked at the Valv Synt ATF which said it was recomended for Chrysler vehicles, but didn't say it was MS-7176 compliant. Don't want to dump in $45 of Sny ATF if it is going to cause a problem.
How do you flushed out the old dino ATF out of the converter? Didn't see a convertor drain plug. Drain/fill with Syn ATF drive a couple of miles, drain/fill with Syn ATF again, and so on until it is mostly Syn ATF. Could go through 20 QT of Syn ATF to get the old non-Syn ATF out with this procedure. Figure it would take 4 drain/fill to get about 90% Syn ATF to 10% dino. I guess adding a trans pan drain plug would make this easier.
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BigBlue QC
GenIII
10/07/2002
18:31:47
| RE: Synthetic ATF+3
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Message:
I hope I am correct in saying the Dodge parts guy your are referring to isn't too brite. The auto trans on the 4.7L requires ATF+4 (I am assuming you have a Dakota, I don't know if the Jeeps had something different in 98 & 99). If it doesn't say the 7176# you referred to & ATF+4 compatible, DON'T USE IT.
I have had great luck w/AMSOIL ATF since 4000 miles(going on 40000 miles) in my trans (see my signature) and after 27000 miles had analysis done and the fluid was in great shape. Use whatever you feel comfortable with.
I think Sandman has recommened against this but I believe the only way of removing all the fluid (including the converter) is by flushing the tranny. Maybe Sandman will respond and expand on that. A complete flush takes around 15 quarts.
Also, do a search here at dodgedakotas.com on automatic trans and trans fluid and I think you will find lots of useful and completely useless info. Good luck.
2002 QC 4x4 Sport Plus, 4.7L, auto, Patriot Blue, Tire & Handling group,
Heavy Duty Service group, Leer cap w/out windows, Mopar Step bars and roof rack, Rhino liner in bed and on step bars, Pace Edwards Power Tailgate lock
3.55 rear, 4-wheel anti-lock brakes, all possible fluids are AMSOIL
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Sandman
Dodge Dakota
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10/07/2002
18:38:17
|  RE: Synthetic ATF+3
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Message:
Now you need to be useing ATF+4 now. ATF+3 has been superceeded by +4 on all aplications other then ATF-4R used in some Mini-Vans and a select few aplications from the 1980's. Their is a TSB out about this. The ATF+4 that DC sells is Hydrocraked so it is almost as good as synthetic. The only synthetic ATF's that are ATF+4 compliant that I am aware of are Amsoil Synthetic Universal ATF and Redline C+ ATF. I have been useing Redline in my transmission 2001 Dak QC 4.7 for close to 10,000 miles with no problems. I have been useing Amsoil in my powerstering pump and Transfer case. You will not have any problems with Amsoil or Redline!!!! Amsoil has a good article on how to flush all the old fluid out of your transmission. The article is at the corperate site I think!! The prper fill for 45RFE automatic is ATF+4 even on those few that shipped with ATF+3 origanaly.
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sandman
Dodge Dakota
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10/07/2002
22:37:12
| RE: Synthetic ATF+3
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I do not have a problem with the flushing method outlined by Amsoil on the corperate site!!! I just do not think it is really needed though if you stay up with maintence!! What I am really against is hooking your trans lines up to a power flushing machine with solvents. I also think that that the method outlined on the Amsoil site has the potential ruin a transmission in the hand of someone that is mechanicaly ignorant and should be recomened with a little more caution! It is almost impossable to go wrong changeing the filters and adding 6-8 quarts of oil back into the system. I always try to air on the side of caution. Also like you I changed my fluid shortly after I got it. At 10,000 miles I changed both filters and ended up adding 8 quarts to the tranny to get it to read right when hot. The way I figure it I was able to change out 60% of the OEM fluid for synthetic within the first 10,000 miles. When I hit 24,00 to 30,000 I will change the filters and fluid again and get another 60% of the fluid in their now switched out with synthetic. So it is not going to take long to get close to 100% synthetic fill in my transmission. The way I understand it the OEM fluid is pretty good. It is hydrocraked and is much closer in performance to a synthetic then the old 7176 ATF+3. For me the cost to benifit ratio just was not their and I did not want to make a mess in my Parents garage. If the vechile had been badly negelected and had oxidized fluid in it then I could see it. It is all about marginal returns!!!
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