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Dakota Performance
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hardbody
Dodge Dakota
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11/27/2001
18:06:20

Subject: ? about throttle body
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I pulled the short accordian hose off today (the one between the stock air filter box and the big square 90) and measured the O.D. of the pipe on the square 90, and the O.D. of the hose, I'm getting 3 1/4" Is this because I have the larger throttle body? I see all the posts about these home made intake kits and most say to use 3" fittings. Truck is a 01, 4.7 also anyone think of using the airaid intake filter kit, and removing the factory box on the TB and using home made parts to connect from the TB to the airaid kit?



2THEXTRM
Dodge Dakota
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11/27/2001
22:53:30

RE: ? about throttle body
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I have the set-up you are talking about on my 01 4.7 right now, it gets plenty of air but my mpg seems to have suffered 1-2 mpg, not sure why. Sounds great with my Flowmaster catback though.



hardbody
Dodge Dakota
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11/27/2001
23:24:50

RE: ? about throttle body
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What did you use to go from the TB to the airaid ? What size fitting did you use?



2THEXTRM
Dodge Dakota
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11/28/2001
20:11:47

RE: ? about throttle body
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I got this idea from Hawkeye since I needed to have something that was adjustable(able to rotate at TB) when I installed my Body Lift. I used a 3" rubber 90 elbow from Home Depot and a small 4" long piece of 3" PVC(had to buy the 10ft to get 4"). After removing the factory airhat, I cut the PVC to length and cleaned up the edges real good with utility knife and sandpaper to make it smooth as possible and painted it black since it came white and looked like sewer pipe(oh, that's right it is). I then removed the factory accordian hose from Air Raid CAD and using some dishsoap to lubricate the inside of hose(you'll understand once you start) and some patience(the accordian hose is just under 3"), slid the PVC in as far as it could go(suggest standing hose standing on end using a flat sturdy surface so you can wrestle with it) and tightened clamp down. I then lubed the rubber 90 and slid that on to the PVC as far as it could go and loosely tightened clamp. Once that whole floppy unit is together, I attached the accordian back to the CAD and snugged down the clamp and then slid the rubber 90 onto the TB(The TB is just under 3" like the accordian hose but seals up when clamp is tightened). You then rotate the 90 until the connection from CAD to the TB is as straight as possible and tighten both elbow clamps(you should not be able pull it off the TB easily). Whoola, the sound is impressive at WOT and the Flowmaster is definately louder at WOT. A mod that costs less than $20 and takes about 1/2 hour to do yourself. Goodluck, now decide what to do with 9'8" of PVC that you could make 29 more intake connections with:)



hardbody
Dodge Dakota
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11/28/2001
20:55:58

RE: ? about throttle body
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Thanks for the info, well since I work for the county down here in the water dept. I can probably find a scrap pc. of pvc laying around somewhere. LOL. I'm assuming that because the pvc you got was white that it was schedule 40 pipe, I was thinking about using schedule 80 pvc, it's the gray pipe, cause it has thicker side walls I figure it would insulate against heat better. From what you wrote, Am I correct that you are still using the factory accordian hose in there somewhere? Don't mean to sound stupid but what is the CAD?



hardbody
Dodge Dakota
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11/28/2001
21:10:00

RE: ? about throttle body
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Just realized what CAD stands for , DUH!!!




2THEXTRM
Gen III
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11/28/2001
21:40:06

RE: ? about throttle body
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Yep, accordian attached to CAD, then PVC, then rubber 90 to TB. It's a real simple set-up. If you have access to the schedule 80, I would use it, not sure if it would make much of a difference as only about 2" of it is exposed between accordian and rubber 90 but if it's free... Home Depot only had the Sched 40 and I probably wouldn't have paid nearly $20 for 4" of pipe anyway:)

Flowmaster stainless cat back, Air Raid CAD and homemade TB connect, 180 T-stat, .76 TPS, 3" Body Lift

hardbody
Dodge Dakota
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11/28/2001
22:03:35

RE: ? about throttle body
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Why did you leave the accordian hose in there? They say that replacing that hose will free up some HP. Did you leave the accordian hose to allow some play so everything lines up? Could you have just made the PVC a little longer and used a straight coupling like the 90 to connect from the pvc to the cad?



2THEXTRM
GenIII
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11/28/2001
22:20:17

RE: ? about throttle body
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Yep, needed the flexibility with the Body Lift, otherwise you could go straight in with PVC and Rubber Coupler, I end up with a straighter shot from CAD to TB due to flex.

Flowmaster stainless cat back, Air Raid CAD and homemade TB connect, Splitfire Plugs, 180 T-stat, .76 TPS, 3" Body Lift, Street Scene grille/valance inserts

ZenDak
Dodge Dakota


11/28/2001
22:42:45

RE: ? about throttle body
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I've seen alot of people doing the home-brew solution for their intakes. Personally, I just blew $160 for the 360airintakez intake cause I like the look....... But,,what I'm trying to say/ask is...
I used to do some plumbing when I was a teenager (WHEN I WAS A TEENAGER!),,and coming off hot water heaters we used what is called CPVC pipe,,not PVC. The CPVC is for high temperature of the water leaving heater so it wouldn't melt/warp the pipe over time. I could see how over time someone's home-brew pvc might start melting, or warping during the summer or something.
Just thought I'd throw out my 4.7 cents on it.
Does sound right/wrong to anyone else? I mean it just makes sense to make it out of the PVC (the CPVC) that was intended for high heat applications.

lates,

Ando



hardbody
Dodge Dakota
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11/28/2001
22:47:22

RE: ? about throttle body
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Your correct, cpvc is used for hot water lines, I know it also runs slightly smaller in OD compared to the same size pvc pipe, not even sure if it comes in a 3" size have to look into it tomorrow at work. Good idea though. I saw on one web site where they said they made an intake out of pvc and in the desert where they were testing it the pipe actually started to bend from the heat!



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