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Brett
Dodge Dakota
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2/11/2006
21:33:41
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 Subject: tranny flush worries
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I have a 97 sport 318. I don't believe that the tranny has been flushed. At least it hasn't been in 2 years. I have heard horror stories of people having their tranny flushed and then less than 100 miles later the tranny goes out. I have 105,000 miles on my truck and want to get the tranny flushed. Has anyone ever heard of this? Or am I just being paranoid?
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ucimaplaya2
Dodge Dakota
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2/11/2006
23:00:03
|  RE: tranny flush worries
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If the tranny has never been flushed, I think its kind of amazing its still working properly. We all know the tranny problems some of our trucks have. When i flushed mine on my 2000 R/T I put mopar ATF+4 back in, instead of the +3. Its supposed to be better for it. Starting in 01 these trans were supposed to have the +4 but any before can be filled with it too. From what I heard the +4 is supposed to be much better for them and somewhere I heard its because its a synthetic (not sure if thats true). Mine seems to shift smoother no problems with that.
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Brett
Dodge Dakota
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2/12/2006
00:33:21
| RE: tranny flush worries
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Ah, so I see. I think that my manual say to put atf+2 in it, and when I had to add some fluid not too long ago, I added some +3. I will end up getting it done soon. I have called a few places around where I live and ask if they tighten any bands. Most say that this is not nessecary. I was taught in my highschool auto class to tighten the bands in the tranny everytime you flush the fluids! Any ideas there?
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Jeremy
Dodge Dakota
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2/12/2006
00:56:55
| RE: tranny flush worries
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if i was you i would just drop the pan, and change the fluid and filter and be done. that way you can do it yourself. you shouldnt have to adjust the bands, unless you are having really hard shifts or really sloppy shifts i wouldnt play with it. and even if you are having poor shifts you may have more problems than band adjustment.
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.boB
Dodge Dakota
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2/12/2006
01:25:11
| RE: tranny flush worries
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6 qts of clean fluid + 2 qts of dirty fluid = 8 qts of dirty fluid.
You can drop the pan and drain what's in the case and save a few bux. We did it that way for years. Only because it was the best we had available. But many people would use air to blow out the coolar lines. And torque converters often had a drain plug in them.
But if you want it done right and you want the best possible service out of your trans, get a flush done. It's not that expensive.
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ucimaplaya2
Dodge Dakota
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2/12/2006
11:04:01
| RE: tranny flush worries
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exactly what bob said. don't just drain and refill. it must be flushed when its got that kind of milage on it. not only will you be able to remove the fluid in the converter with a flush, but it will also remove some of the build up that could be resting in places like the valve body that would just stay there if it was just drained.
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mystery
Dodge Dakota
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2/12/2006
11:44:41
| RE: tranny flush worries
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How necessary is having it flushed? I have never flushed my transmission but I do change the fluid and filters every 15k miles. 71k miles on it and so far so good.
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.boB
Dodge Dakota
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2/12/2006
15:10:28
| RE: tranny flush worries
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How "necessary" is it? Good question. In the olden days, we just drained and filled. And tried to blow out some of the lines if we were feeling energetic. That worked. If you were diligent about frequent fluid changes you could get 100K out of the trans before the clutches really started showing wear.
IMO, a drain and fill is better than nothing. If you drain and fill every 15K, that's probably as good as a flush every 30K. But now I pay for the full flush at a pro shop every 30K. It may actually be cheaper that way. It certainly is a lot less hassle.
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DrPepper
GenIII
2/12/2006
15:32:41
| RE: tranny flush worries
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I guess I'm confused about what a tranny flush is. My local Chrysler dealer tried to talk me into a flush and when I questioned him they disconnect the lines to the radiator cooler and "backflush the trans". I asked if they change the filter and he said no. At that point I had a hard time not laughing to loudly. I asked how do you clean the shavings out of the pan, he said the backflush machine does that.
At that point I said,"so, your machine makes enough pressure to blow all the grit out of my filter, stir up the pan bottom, and filter it clean with fresh oil, without blowing a hole in it, right? He said yes. I told him, not my car..!! I change the filter and oil in the pan, that's, over half the capacity. No problems.
What is the procedure you guys are told is done?
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stevedak
Dodge Dakota
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2/12/2006
15:38:34
| RE: tranny flush worries
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how much does it usually cost to have your tranny flushed?
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jpkomm
Dodge Dakota
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2/12/2006
16:14:07
| RE: tranny flush worries
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If you have the fluid/filter, it generally runs at about $90.. give or take $10.
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stevedak
Dodge Dakota
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2/12/2006
16:14:59
| RE: tranny flush worries
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so total price including fluid and filter would be about???
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jpkomm
Dodge Dakota
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2/12/2006
16:41:55
| RE: tranny flush worries
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No clue.. depends on where you take it and what their markup is. I'm guessing in the ballpark of $180 to $200 or so. Also they usually give you options of different grades/brands. Best thing to do is just call around. I think it is a bit cheaper if you have a 5-spd.
If you have a 45RFE transmission, you will have two filters (just FYI in case you decide to get all the supplies). It is honestly cheaper to just buy your own fluid, filters, and pan gasket as generally the markup at dealerships or other shops tends to be high and they sometimes use cheapo fluid. This way you know what is going in your truck.
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Kevin
Dodge Dakota
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2/12/2006
17:20:33
| RE: tranny flush worries
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Do 5 speeds follow the same rules? Up till about 3 months ago I have never owned any thing but automatic, so I am trying to learn what the maitnence is suppose to be for a 5 speed. Thanks for the comments.
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ucimaplaya2
Dodge Dakota
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2/12/2006
17:35:28
| RE: tranny flush worries
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According to the owners manual regarding the manual transmissions, "These transmissions are filled with manual transmission fluid at the factory. This fluid does not require periodic changing. If it becomes necessary to add or change the fluid in these transmissions, use Mopar Manual Transmission Fluid, part number 4874464. This is the only lubricant recommended for use in these transmissions." So it says you dont need to do it regularly. If it was me, I would change it whenever changing the differential fluids, or whenever the shifts seem to feel a little tight.
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AmsoilSponsor
DakotaEnthusiast
2/12/2006
19:53:37
|  Amsoil Synthetic ATF - Amsoil Dealer Steven Roark
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Many people don't like the flush machines (including myself).
DIY when Changing Your Transmission Fluid.
If you are going to DIY ... You can pick up a filter kit from AutoZone for about $10 and it contains the filter and gasket. It is not nessasary to use any silicon or gasket sealer just be sure your pan surface is clean. NOTE: It is a messy DIY job.
__________________________________________________
Changing Your Transmission Fluid in 12 EASY Steps:
1. Make sure the fluid is warm. Warm up your Dakota so the transmission is at normal operating temperature. Pull the transmission dipstick. Fresh fluid is translucent and cherry red. Some darkening is normal, but if it is reddish brown or mustard color and smells like burnt varnish, it is worn out.
2. Drain the fluid by loosening the pan. Select the correct filter replacement based on pan shape and prepare a large pan to catch the fluid. Then loosen each pan bolt a turn or two and loosen one corner more than rest. Drain mostly from this corner.
3. Finish removing the pan and any gasket material from the pan or case. Avoid scratching the metal and make sure the pan’s gasket surface isn’t bent or distorted.
4. Remove the old filter. Most transmission filters are held in place with a bolt or two, but some are held by a clip. Be careful to include O-Rings or other seals.
5. Install a new filter. Use the clips or bolts from the old filter. Be sure O-Rings, etc. are in place. If the filter has a long intake neck, gently push the neck into place without unseating the O-Ring.
6. Clean the pan thoroughly. Inspect the pan before cleaning. A small amount of fine grey clutch dust is normal. However, if you find metal shavings, there has been transmission damage. Clean the pan with solvent and wipe dry so there is no harmful residue.
7. Position gasket on pan. Some gaskets have four holes slightly smaller than the rest to allow four bolts through the pan and through these smaller holes to hold the gasket in place.
8. Hand tighten pan bolts in a criss-cross pattern. After that, use a torque wrench to tighten bolts to proper ft-lbs as per manufacturer.
9. Refill the transmission using only the amount shown as “refill capacity” in the owners manual (or "AMSOIL Product Selection Guide”), using the type of fluid specified for the vehicle.
10. If doing only a partial fluid replacement, skip to instruction 12 below. If doing a complete fluid replacement, follow the steps in instruction 11.
11. You now have replaced the fluid in the pan. To replace the fluid in the torque converter and oil cooler also, follow these steps.
Step 1. Obtain the total system capacity of the vehicle from the manufacturer. Have this amount readily available.
Step 2. Disconnect the oil cooler line from the oil cooler. As you may not know which is the pressure side and which is the return side, have both directed so the stream of fluid will be directed toward a receptacle.
Step 3. With another person, be prepared to add ATF to the fill area as it is being pumped out of the oil cooler line.
Step 4. Start the engine, and as the old fluid is pumped out, add fresh fluid to the pan.
Step 5. When either the fluid color brightens or the total capacity has been replaced, shut the engine off and re-attach the oil cooler line. All fluids has now been changed.
12. Recheck the fluid level. With the truck on level ground, set the parking brake and the transmission in “Park” or “Neutral.” Let the engine idle for a few minutes. Shift the transmission into different positions before returning the lever to “Park” or “Neutral.” Check the fluid level again and check for leaks.
This is really a "two-person" DIY operation. The ATF will come out faster than it goes in ... so you may need to stop and restart the engine a few times.
PLEASE CONSIDER ... AMSOIL SYNTHETIC UNIVERSAL ATF.
__________________________________________________
I would welcome the opportunity to be your AMSOIL DEALER of choice. You can REQUEST A FREE AMSOIL CATALOG by clicking below.
Steven Roark , Amsoil Dealer , Proud Sponsor of www.DodgeDakotas.com
AMSOIL Synthetic Motor Oils, Lubricants, Filtration, and Truck Care Products
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AmsoilSponsor
DakotaEnthusiast
2/12/2006
19:54:57
| ATF+4 vs. AMSOIL SYNTHETIC ATF
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As a substitute for ATF+4, please consider AMSOIL Synthetic Universal Automatic Transmission Fluid.
Since 1999, due to the special requirements of their automatic transmissions, Chrysler has recommended a unique ATF+4 formulation. In addition, Chrysler has been recommending ATF+4 for all previous makes and models of Chrysler Corporation vehicles. ATF+4 is a VERY highly friction modified fluid.
__________________________________________________
AMSOIL Synthetic Universal ATF
Recommended for applications requiring the following specifications:
.......... Chrysler ATF+, ATF+2, ATF+3, ATF+4
AMSOIL Synthetic Universal Automatic Transmission Fluid is a universal ATF designed to exceed nearly all foreign and domestic performance requirements. It improves fuel efficiency, reduces transmission temperatures by 20 to 50 degrees F and increases transmission life. Provides unsurpassed thermal stability and at least 3 times (and up to 5 times) the life of conventional ATFs. Delivers maximum protection for towing and other severe-duty applications. Formulated with synthetic basestocks and the top-of-the-line additive package, AMSOIL ATF provides top performance, durability & efficiency.
,b>Key Benefits to You:
(1) Cleaner transmission components, (2) More efficient power transfer, (3) Lower Transmission temperatures, (4) Dramatically less transmission wear, (5) Smoother cold temperature operation, (6) Long drain intervals
Compatible Applications:
Nearly all passenger cars (foreign & domestic), Nearly all light duty trucks (including Dodge Dakotas and Durangos).
Recommended for applications requiring the following specifications:
GM Dexron II, Dexron III; Ford Mercon, Mercon V; Chrysler ATF+, ATF+2, ATF+3, ATF+4; Mitsubishi Diamond SP II & III; Allison C-3 & C-4 and TES-295; Caterpillar Powershift Transmission TO-2 & TO-3; Voith Commercial Transmissions; GM Strasbourg (European Imports) and Opel; Applications requiring Honda Z-1 transmission fluids; Toyota Type T and T-IV
__________________________________________________
I would welcome the opportunity to be your AMSOIL DEALER of choice. You can REQUEST A FREE AMSOIL CATALOG by clicking below.
Steven Roark , Amsoil Dealer , Proud Sponsor of www.DodgeDakotas.com
AMSOIL Synthetic Motor Oils, Lubricants, Filtration, and Truck Care Products
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flex
Dodge Dakota
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2/12/2006
20:11:24
| RE: tranny flush worries
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I have noticed if you are on a good incline or use a ramp when you change your fluid you not only get all in the pan but a lot of whats in the torque converter too.
I have heard good and bad things about flushes so I usually just drop the pan, replace filters, clean the pan, and put it all back myself.
That procedure from AMSOIL seems interesting to get it all out.
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ucimaplaya2
Dodge Dakota
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2/12/2006
20:53:25
| RE: tranny flush worries
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yes its true the amsoil sponser just described the correct way to DIY. Essentially you are doing the same thing as a flushing machine would do with a filter change though. The advantage is that you will save money doing it yourself with a friend to collect old fluid and add new fluid. Also you know that the filter was changed. A lot of places do not change the filter and will charge a lot to do the filter AND a flush. Most would just prefer to flush since its so easy for them. I worked in a shop and we usually would change the filter and flush it, but it would usually cost atleast $150-200, if you just wanted the flush then its only $80 max. Some customers just preferred to just flush it and save some cash but they didn't really seem to care about their vehicles, we all seem to love our trucks though.
The proper way to flush using a machine, is to start the vehicle and let the machine collect some of the old fluid in the pan and flush new fluid through it, when the color of the fluid coming out matches the fluid going in, then you can stop adding fluid and let the machine collect the fluid in the pan. It will pick up most of the fluid and allow the pan to be dropped and change the filter. Then you simply put it back together fill it full of new fluid, run it through all the gears and recheck the level. Done.
So if you want to pay a shop to do it then make sure they do it right. Most do not want to change the filter.
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Casey
Dodge Dakota
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6/13/2006
19:37:55
| RE: tranny flush worries
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Question: I have a 2001 dodge dakota slt 4.7v8 with a 5 speed manual trany. I'm at about 35k miles (I know I don't drive that far to work) but recently when I shift into 3rd gear, if I don't hold my stick shift in place, when I release my clutch and trottle up it will throw right into neutral. Sometimes if I hold my stick it still won't go in, it will start to grind. Now I go into 3rd really slow or I trottle up 2nd and bypass to 4th, any suggestions on what is wrong? Do I need a trany flush?
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Obio3
Dodge Dakota
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6/14/2006
01:21:52
| RE: tranny flush worries
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Brett. sounds like you only owned the truck 2 years. You never mentioned any trany problems going on. No idea how many of the 105,000 you put on the truck but I'm going to guess the truck had at the least reasonable care . Is your trany oil clean looking and smell like new. No burn smell. Not brown or creamy looking. Myself, I wouldn't have a problem flushing the trany BUT I would NOT let a shop do it on a machine. Do it yourself. It really is not a big job but you do need a friends help. If you can't do it, Have a small reputable shop do it that will pull a line and run it to finish the flush. with luck you can watch. If you have no seal leaks now it is not likely you will get any after the manual type flush.
Also, I think these transmissions are not that bad IF you drive them as they was intended to be. these trucks are not ment to be hot rods. Most of the guys that have troubles drive there trucks hard. There are very few guys in here that do not talk about street racing there trucks and some race the strip. Speed cost money and that cost includes trannies. Most, not all but most that drive there trucks as intended have no problems with the trany. this fact carries over to every brand out there. I'm 63. Never in my life time have I lost a trany , automatic or standard.
Here's the deal. If you do change it all there is a rare posibility of something going wrong. IF you do not change it you are guarenteed it will take a dump at some point
So many problems .... So little time
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