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heavymetal
Dodge Dakota
6/30/2001
15:09:53
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 Subject: 2000 Dak Head Light Replacement?
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Message:
What tools are needed to replace the halogen bulbs in a 2000 Dakota and where are the fasteners? I can see some fasteners from the front and they look like a star or hex pattern of some type. The Owners manual picture is useless.
What is the simplest way to take out the headlight assembly without breaking the plastic tabs?
I can not believe Dodge makes a truck where you have to pull out the headlight assembly to replace the bulb. Unbelievable.
Thanks in advance.
John Manko
2000 CC 4.7 V8 4x4
Butler, PA
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durtydog
Dodge Dakota
6/30/2001
15:44:28
|  RE: 2000 Dak Head Light Replacement?
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Message:
there is a post about this.havent done mine yet but i think it said 3 10mm bolts hold in a ring undo them and presto.look it up in search
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Dan Gruber
Gen III
6/30/2001
20:33:47
| RE: 2000 Dak Head Light Replacement?
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Message:
According to the 2000 service manual the headlight assembly must be removed to replace the bulb. The drawing isn't that great in the book, but it says to open the hood, remove the bolts (doesn't say how many, what size, or give the exact location) that attach the assembly to the inner fender panel. The grab the headlight and pull it out. from there you should be able to pull the bulb out from the back of the headlight assembly.
The torx screw between the headlight and the blinker is what attaches the blinker to the headlight assembly.
Dan
2000 CC SLT 4.7 4X4 Auto 3.55 LSD
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heavymetal
Dodge Dakota
6/30/2001
22:00:56
| RE: 2000 Dak Head Light Replacement?
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Message:
Well I managed to get both bulbs out without taking the headlight assemblies off, but I lost a little skin in the process. For a small V8, the front of the engine compartment is a little cramped; I would have thought the Dodge Engineers could have done a better job of space management. The driver's side was not too bad, but the passenger side was a little more difficult. I loosened/moved the airbox assembly and (permanently)took off the 90 degree elbow that feeds the bottom of the airbox. That maneuver gave a fairly clean line of sight to the bulb.
Anyway, I put in a pair of those aftemarket zenon bulbs. They are whiter & a little brighter (same wattage as OEM, I believe), but they still do not come close to the 100w/80w H4 Hellas in my '84 VW Gti (210K miles, 1.8L many mods!). When I turn on the hi- beams in the Gti, it is almost daylight. The 80w low beams do not blind anyone as the bulbs have cut outs. The local Bosch mechanic recommended that I install a relay from the battery, which I did, to prevent the higher bulb currents from burning the light switch/wiring out.
Still not satisfied, I just ordered two 9007 100w/80w bulbs from rallylights.com (fyi,wide variety of lighting goodies), and I was wondering do I need to install relays to prevent the Dakota switch/wires from burning up?
The Dakota is really a great truck, but the OEM lighting is really piss poor.
I travel many deer/varmint infested roads and it would be nice to avoid slamming my Dakota into a 200lb whitetail.
Thanks in advance.
John Manko
2000 CC 4.7 V8
Night Vision Improvement in Progress!
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DarkFury
Dodge Dakota
6/30/2001
22:56:22
| RE: 2000 Dak Head Light Replacement?
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Message:
Hey guys... If you are interested in bulbs, check out this site: http://www.midnightmoose.com/xenon.htm
They have 9007 HID Xenon bulbs for $15.49 a pair... their site even says that they give greater discounts for "club buys"... I just wonder if anyone else has dealt with them?
Maybe we should try a group buy on these?
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Swampdak
Gen III
7/01/2001
11:45:17
| RE: 2000 Dak Head Light Replacement?
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Message:
The mech at the service dept where I bought my truck changed my bulb from inside hood, but he had a hard time.It can be done though.
2000 CC 4.7 AUTO 4X4 3.55 TRAC-LOK SLT 16.35/82.41
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heavymetal
Dodge Dakota
7/02/2001
08:28:57
| RE: 2000 Dak Head Light Replacement?
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Message:
Since no one here seemed to know whether or not relays are needed with higher wattage headlight bulbs, I contacted Ken from Susquehenna Motor Sports (www.rallylights.com). Here is the reply:
In general, large wattage bulbs like 100/80 have worked just fine on every car I've had - but you have to make sure all the connectors are clean and the wiring is in good shape with no corrosion anywhere. Your results may vary - especially on older cars where corrosion has had time to build up. I wouldn't run anything over 100 watts as the bulbs tend to be unreliable and short-lived because of the excess heat.
The rated output of an automotive lamp is figured at 13.5 volts (the output of a typical alternator), not at 12 volts as you might expect. If you loose 5% of the voltage due to voltage drop
through small wiring or corroded connections, which gets you to 12.8 volts, you are only putting out 80% of the rated luminous intensity - for a 100 watt lamp that means only 80 watts equivalent!! So after you get your new bright bulbs installed, you might want to measure the voltage at the bulb with the engine running and
the lights on - then decide if you want to upgrade your wiring.
End of Ken's reply.
Fyi, Jacobs Electronics now makes a relay wiring harness called a 'Headlight Brightener' that prevents these large voltage drops by taking juice right from the alternator output.
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